Life & Love with Chastity Brown

Thank you for talking to Lavender, Chastity. In listening to you and your music, it’s clear that Chastity Brown and love go together.  One of the quotes on your website that made me smile was, “Get ready to love Chastity Brown.” I’d say that much of our community already does, but I’d like to introduce to to more of it.

AL: You’re from Tennessee and live in Minnesota. Where is it that you call home?

CB: I call both Tennessee and Minnesota home.

Is your family in Tennessee?

Yes. My mom, brother, and one of my sisters live in the town that I grew up in, Union City, Tennessee.

How did your family shape you? How did Tennessee shape you?

I was born in New Hampshire and the majority of kinfolk, including my two oldest sisters, live there. But I was raised in a small town in Tennessee just north of Memphis (Union City). The location had just as much an influence on me as my family, possibly more.  Union City is a rural town close to both Nashville’s country, story-telling heritage, and Memphis’ blues and gospel roots.

When did you move to Minnesota?

I moved to Minnesota about seven years ago when I was 23. Kind of on a whim. I didn’t know anyone, except my one friend, who was coming here to go to grad school at U of M, and her parents, who invited me to tag along.

When did music enter your life?  Legends like Roberta Flack and Nina Simone have been mentioned in terms of your musical inheritance.  Who was in your ear as you matured?

Music has always been in my life. My father was a jazz/blues musician. He passed away when I was young but the potent memories I have of him are of him playing. In addition, my sister played classical piano and my brother, tenor sax. So, naturally, I had to talk my mother into letting me play an instrument or a number of instruments. During those formative years I also went to a full gospel church, one in which the music could “take over” the service and last up to two hours–a type of emotive improvisation. This is where I learned to sing out of myself.

If we’re watching the local music scene, we’re seeing the name Chastity Brown.  If we attended Prides and fundraisers for the VOTE NO campaign last year, we saw Chastity Brown.  How is this recognition feeling to you?  Is being known something you’re comfortable with?  How do you approach celebrity and being a public figure?

My first goal in playing music was to feel like I was a part of something. The style of music that I play has the tradition of being integrated with the surrounding community. When I first started playing music in Knoxville, Tennessee, one of my mentors told me that before I took off to “tour the world” I would have to first give the music to my neighborhood which, for him, meant everything from funerals to weddings to front porch jam sessions to fundraisers. He said that doing this would teach me the value of what I was doing; it would make me be honest with myself as to whether or not I thought I could really do it.

When I started playing in Minnesota I made myself available for every opportunity to play. I am grateful that folks have embraced my music. To me, being a public figure means you have to stand behind the values that got you to where you’re at.

How do you identify and how does that affect your presence in the public spotlight?  

I stand under the umbrella of queer. I like this term because its meaning has broadness and breadth.  Queer is in my power to define; it is a term that is subject to change depending on the individual, and I find freedom in that.  I’ve had the privilege to play some really great festivals and colleges that take pride in queer communities.

When did your identity become apparent to you?

I guess it has always been apparent to me.  I questioned it as most young people question anything about themselves, but it just felt natural to be attracted to women.

Did you have a “coming out” or was it more of a “becoming?”  How would you talk about your path?

As I said, it has always been apparent to me…but when it became apparent to the faculty of the seminary school I was attending, let’s just say they didn’t really think it was as good of an idea to date women as I did. Subsequently, I was kicked out my freshman year of college.

How does being a person of color, as well as queer, affect your life and how you approach or are approached by others?

How much time do you have?

My main concern with this delicate subject is that I’ll be wedged into a stereotype and therefore creatively pigeon-holed. I try to let the music speak for itself in the sense that it does not always correlate to my personal life, although sometimes it is influenced by it.  My identity is a part of the fabric of it all, but it is not the centerpiece.  I believe it has to be broader than myself in order to connect with people. That being said, there is never a moment when I am not cognizant of color and identity.

Do you have any advice for young women of color who are exploring their sexual identities?

The community is vast and beautiful and, although people of color are underrepresented in the media and other outlets, you can find strong community here in the Twin Cities if you’re open to exploring your own truth.

Would you say your identity is apparent in your songwriting?

I think it depends on the listener.

What are your thoughts on love these days? Where would you say love falls in your list of influences in your songwriting?

Love is definitely a thematic element in my songwriting.  It’s not something I seek out intentionally. When I’m writing new material, it often finds its way into a song in surprising ways…it might be a story about a man who just lost his job, a woman in love, insight from a friend; it takes on various forms.

And…Valentine’s Day: Overrated or undercelebrated?

Overrated.

Do you have a valentine this year?  Are you seeking one?

I’ve had a sweetheart for the last seven years, so no, I’m not seeking one.

What’s your favorite or least favorite Valentine’s Day memory?

To be honest, I’ve never really celebrated Valentine’s Day.  Is that bad?

Although, I do remember in 3rd grade this kid, Perry Carr, who was tall and lanky with a voice similar to Eeyore, gave me this homemade valentine. After being severely teased about it in the hallway, his response was, “I don’t care, I think she’s pretty.” I thought that was nice.

The rub for the singles on Valentine’s Day can be fairly chafing.  Do you have any advice for the singles?

There are so many different kinds of relationships in our lives that have value…relationships beyond couple-dom.

If you were to write a valentine on a construction paper heart, what would it say?

Hey Darlin’

Chastity Brown has a calendar full of appearances on her website at www.chastitybrownmusic.com; particularly, you should be sure to get her show on April 5th at the Cedar Cultural Center on your schedule. 

 

Letter from the Editor: For No One

I’m thrilled to finally feature Chastity Brown in Lavender. She’s crossed my radar so many times in the past year that I feel a little behind the curve, but better late than never. I was listening to the recent release of the Minnesota Beatle Project Vol. 4 (put out by Vega Productions to benefit music programs in schools) when I heard her rendition of “For No One.” She’s only done this one cover amongst her original works; it is so very gut-wrenching with her voice and interpretation of Paul McCartney’s lyrics. Slow and contemplative, Chastity sings: “And in her eyes you see nothing/ no sign of love behind the tears/ cried for no one/ a love that should have lasted years.” It captures a dreamy quality of yearning and denial almost too well. Apropos for the Valentine Issue? Indeed.

Valentine’s Day falls when things can be pretty stinky for the singletons. It’s cold and somewhat dark outside, thoughts stray to cozying up with someone we don’t have. On top of it, we’re fighting a fight for the freedom to marry, which has foisted loving couples into our vision and News Feeds in great concentration for over a year. They’re everywhere and the more they’re seen by greater society, the easier the fight will be. Good. But, at the same time, it’s rough. I’ll get it out of the way: I’m happy for you, you two make a great couple, blah blah blah. It’s true. I’m happy for people who have found their beloveds. But, it can bring out a little bit of the bitter, too. Some of us are working out of relationships. Some of us don’t remember our last relationship. Some of us are even new to the community and just figuring out where we fit and what kind of relationship we’re looking to have. Hoping. Our Valentine’s Days are for no one.

The interesting thing about Valentine’s Day is that we don’t tend to ignore it as we would any other holiday that we don’t observe. I never struggle with how to spend Hanukkah as a Lutheran, why do I worry about Valentine’s Day as a singleton? We are funny people. I’m going to take it easy on myself and curl up with Grendel, my dog, as I would on any other Thursday night. I’ll probably hang out on Facebook and listen to more of the Minnesota Beatles Project. Maybe, I’ll have some ice cream that I have to share…wait for it…with no one.

With love,
Andy

Listen to a snippet and buy “For No One” here at Amazon.com.

Winter What To Do – WHERE: Whistler, BC

Far-Flung Ski Trip: Where Else But Whistler?

It’s winter and you want to get away.  The Swiss Alps might not be an option, but perhaps somewhere in North America will sweep you off your feet in British Columbia, Canada.  Try Whistler for downhill skiing, snowboarding, shopping, eating, drinking, and hot-tubbing.  Go during WinterPRIDE and turn it into one big party–we could use a cool winter counterpart to our sundry summer Pride celebrations.  Surrounded by mountains in a snow-covered wonderland, you’ll feel far away from anything resembling your daily routine.  It’ll even feel a little worldly in an Olympic sort of way with plenty of updates and enhancements that were made for the 2010 Winter Olympics in Vancouver when Whistler hosted many of the downhill skiing events.  Keep an eye out for the five rainbow rings–Olympic reminders are both in the Village and up the mountains.

Where to Go:

Your trip starts before you get to Whistler.  Accessible by train, car, airport transfer, bus, taxi, helicopter, or ride-share, you need to get yourself to Whistler, somehow.  But, just because you can’t fly there, doesn’t mean you should dismay–you get to witness some of the most beautiful coastal scenery along the Sea-to-Sky Highway.  Prepare a good soundtrack for this trip, we chose dramatic movie scores by the composer Hans Zimmer and it felt like it was a film…and ran about the same length of time with sweeping views set to majestic music.

Whistler is comprised of an Upper and Lower Village and two mountains that are connected at the top by a gondola.  Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains used to be two separate skiing areas until one was sold to the other.  How do you buy a mountain?  How do you sell a mountain?  I can’t quite fathom the transaction, but the result is a good one–a skiing package includes both mountains.  The winter average for snowfall is 39.1 feet and the temperature is usually around 22°F.  With over 200 trails, the 37 lifts can accommodate transporting over 65,000 up the mountains per hour.  It’s popular and it’s ready for you to join the fun.

Whether you’re wearing skis or not, there’s one big red reason to take a lift upward–the Peak2Peak Gondola.  Built in 2008, Peak2Peak joins Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains as a 1.88-mile long, completely unsupported lift.  The ride between the mountains is 11 minutes of breathtaking views of all sides–up, down, and all-around.  And, as Dean Nelson of GayWhistler.com told us, plenty riders have mastered the art of shaking up some cocktails to enjoy in those 11 minutes: Fly the friendly skies.

WinterPride-PinkFlight

Back down on the ground, the Village is rather dense with shops, restaurants, and hotels in the Lower Village while mostly hotels and access to the lifts are in the Upper Village.  A short walk between the two can find you suddenly in the mix of an outdoor shopping mall with the same sorts of stores you can find at home (or anywhere…like GAP, Eddie Bauer, North Face).  We shopped the sales racks and found better deals in Whistler than at home, even given the difference in US and Canadian dollar values.  There are plenty of places to buy souvenirs and even at least one bookstore to tuck into and find a quiet read for the spa.

Many of the hotels have spas in them, but we ventured out to the Scandinave Spa outside of the Village, set on a hill in the mountains…surrounded by trees and privacy.  If you’ve never experienced a Scandinavian style spa, it is based on the principles of heating and then cooling, somewhat rapidly. Having a eucalyptus-scented steam room, some saunas, some cool pools and showers, hot tubs, and solariums, the Scandinave Spa lets you choose your own style for your heating and cooling road to Wellville.  Relaxing in a steam room would be followed by stepping into a cold shower.  Or, opening up the pores in the sauna would be followed by closing them in a shockingly cool pool.  You create your own circuit of sorts which could last as long or as short as you’d like, but each must end with some quiet time in a solarium, warming back up.  The rule is that there’s no talking at Scandinave Spa, which is remarkably easy to follow the whole time while relaxing, but remarkably hard to adhere to when being doused by cold water.  Be sure to check the massage options as well, the Scandinavians know how to knead out a knot or two.

Finally and most importantly, more alluring than just the fact that Whistler is the top ski destination in North America is the fact that it holds a week-long WinterPRIDE.  GayWhistler.com coordinates an annual celebration of all-things-GLBT with special rates and activities; this year, WinterPRIDE is February 3-10, 2013.  While there are no gay bars in Whistler, WinterPRIDE pretty much takes over the Village and the slopes for a week with special parties; daytime activities like ziplining, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, and talks about social issues; guided ski and snowboard trips down both mountains; and plenty of apres ski food and fun.  There’s drag to be found and drinks to be downed.

 

Where to Stay:

The Village and surrounding area have multiple hotel, condo, VRBO (Vacation Rental By Owner) and timeshare options–choose your style and price and most everything is within a short distance to all the action.  We stayed at the Fairmont Chateau, which looked like a modern angular Neuschwanstein Castle set in a Bavarian forest, especially the further we traveled from the Village up the mountain. Heavy wood beams and colorful folk-inspired art carried through the Chateau feel inside, while the views from all sides were spectacular.  Since everything is accessible by walking or taking a taxi, we parked the car (for a $20-$25 cost/day) and enjoyed what the accommodations had to offer us: plush comfort and proximity.

Where to Eat/Drink:

Choosing a restaurant in Whistler can be as easy as choosing your hotel–most of the hotels have casual cafes as well as more formal dining destinations.  The Wildflower at the Fairmont Chateau had the most luscious breakfast, something I’d heard of from foodie friends who’d already eaten there–the brunch is tremendous and spectacular.  Lunch at Nita Lake Lodge south of the Whistler Village Area had a lovely lighter soup and sandwich fare for pre-trudging in nature.  Stay where you eat or eat where you stay–there are plenty of options.

As for restaurants that weren’t attached to accommodations, we went with places that people had personally vouched for–places that have thrilled previous foodie friends when they’ve dined at them: RimRock Cafe and Araxi Restaurant + Bar.  RimRock Cafe is a modest, warm lodge-like restaurant, just south of the Village.  Separate from the hustle and bustle, RimRock is relaxing and the ambiance is embracing.  A nice menu with lovely variations of fish, seafood, meats, and seasonal vegetables and grains, we chose the Prix Fixe option that was the most affordable splurge of our dining endeavors.  Our beginnings included a Roasted Beet Salad with apples, avocado, and a champagne vinaigrette.  My friend ordered the fish while I ordered the Scallops and Pork Belly, but asked them to hold the Scallops since I don’t eat fish or seafood.  That’s right.  I got Pork Belly with Pork Belly–and was very happy.  We ended with the Sticky Toffee Pudding.  Read that again and know that it was as good as it sounds, rich and gooey.

 

Despite the superb meal we enjoyed at RimRock, the culinary winner of our trip to Vancouver and Whistler was Araxi Restaurant + Bar.  We spent hours there; bantering with the servers, sipping the different wines, slurping the coastal oysters, and munching the dessert macarons.  Araxi is the place to see and be seen right in heart of the Lower Village.  A wide-open room full of tables upon tables, you can look around and make eye contact with people you’ve been spying on all day while riding the gondolas and lifts, or perusing the sales racks.  Starting with special oysters chosen after studying the list and consulting the Australian server, we moved leisurely to our main entrees.  The menu has changed since our visit but Roasted Saddle of Rabbit with pork cheek looks to be similar to one of the succulent dishes we devoured, something which we would write home about.  Thankfully, the dessert menu still features our favorites: Poached Anjou Pears with chevre cheesecake and hazelnut streusel crust which was more of a fork-food paired with the Fuji Apple Beignets, pecan donuts filled with apple which we happily dunked in caramel-milk chocolate sauce.  We gilded the hell out of that lily.  When it was finally time to bid adieu to our meal, we took some macrons to go for enjoying back in the hotel…it helped ease the departure.  Too bad they don’t deliver to Minnesota.

Where to Go Online:

WinterPRIDE (Feb. 3-10, 2013)/GayWhistler.com – Dean Nelson
www.gaywhistler.com

Shopping and Attractions in the Village
www.tourismwhistler.com

Skiing/Peak2Peak Gondola
www.whistlerblackcomb.com

Fairmont Chateau Whistler
www.fairmont.com/whistler

RimRock Cafe
www.rimrockwhistler.com

Nita Lake Lodge
www.nitalakelodge.com

Araxi Restaurant + Bar
www.araxi.com

Scandinave Spa
www.scandinave.com/en/whistler

From the Editor: Happy New Year

Happy New Year.  The last time I wrote, I talked about the cognitive dissonance of balancing the victory of defeating the marriage amendment last November just to have the issue of same-sex marriage be dropped by legislators.  We’re in a holding pattern until leadership takes the reigns and I really hope that’ll have happened by the time this hits the stands a week from today.  When this hits the stands, it’ll be the day after the start of the 2013 legislative session at the Capitol.  By God, I hope we’ll have rallied.

We’re good at rallies.  They usually run a bit long, we’re so good at them.  We’re passionate about this issue of attaining the freedom to marry.  Our speeches laud previous civil rights leaders and activists and we quote them; we say that this issue is no different.  Marriage is a freedom that this community has the right to as citizens of this country.  This community is an established and recognized group of people that has been defended as a minority, as well as a group of people that will not be discriminated against in the workplace, in academic institutions, in matters where being separate and independent people are concerned.

Now, in matters where joining together as a unit are concerned, this community needs  consistent recognition as a group that should not be discriminated against.  It needs to be reiterated that to join together with someone as a family unit is seen as an asset in our society.  Resources are shared, security is boosted, health is improved, and happiness is arguably more widespread.  If these statements weren’t true, marriage would not be something to attain, rights and privileges would not be attached to marriage, and marriage would be a non-issue for most people as it would not be as desirable, or even as necessary.  Therefore, same-sex couples who would seek to join marriage would improve our society as being more supported and legal in the sharing of resources, security, health, and happiness.

And this is a good thing for us as a society.

This good thing–this positivity–is what needs to be shared in this next leg of attaining the freedom to marry.  It’s both more nuanced and encompassing than this simple version, of course.  It would involve children that already exist in families that already exist headed by same-sex couples that already exist.  It would include couples that don’t yet exist that would be comprised of people who have not yet come out.  It would mean that same-sex couples, once legally married, would have to go through more hoops and legal proceedings to no longer be together as it would require divorce.  It would mean that language would become easier as marriage will be marriage whether in passing on the street or passing on in inheritance.

During the VOTE NO campaign, we shared our stories.  We had conversations as to why marriage matters to us.  We talked about rights. We pleaded our cases. We persuaded.  We came out. We cried. We overwhelmingly made the point that to limit marriage to be between a man and a woman in the Minnesota Constitution was unacceptable.  We need to continue these conversations.

What I’ve been grappling with and listening to in the time since the election is this issue about what the state voting down the marriage amendment meant.  As people talk, I hear them say that to assume that the state is ready for same-sex marriage is to misinterpret the election results… that defeating the amendment does not equate to wanting to extend the freedom to marry to include same-sex couples.

This is true.  The one does not mean the other.

But, we don’t need to underestimate Minnesota, either.  We don’t have to assume if the legislators legalize same-sex marriage right away that the backlash will be substantial or long-lasting.  Extending the freedom to marry to same-sex couples will benefit all of us as a state, as a nation.  It is a movement that will happen, and it can happen now.  We are ready enough…the people who aren’t may never really be, until they’re forced to be for the greater good of society.

And, I can guarantee you, as far as the future of Civil Rights in the United States of America is concerned, to not move progressively on the issue of extending the freedom to marry to same-sex couples will have far more negative of a backlash than people who are upset by it.  To be worried about the ripple effect of one action to make things right with a minority in the United States of America versus the inaction that fortifies discrimination is short-sighted and un-American.

So, with this, I charge you with challenging others in those conversations that include statements like “the state isn’t ready for same-sex marriage” or “the state has other priorities.”  Ask them what is there to be ready for?  Stop letting people frame same-sex marriage as something that is negative. Reclaim the conversations we started having last year and express to them the positive aspects of extending the freedom to marry to same-sex couples.  And, if you’re feeling particularly engaging, ask them when would be right and when should civil rights be a priority, because if they can’t give specific dates, I’d maintain the answer is always NOW.

Keep rallying.

With thanks,
Andy

Winter What To Do – WHERE: Vancouver, BC

A Look Into the Future

by Andy Lien with Carson Riutta

Vancouver, British Columbia.  The place where so many of our favorite television shows are filmed happens to be a destination in and of itself.  A winter one, even?  Indeed.  There’s nary a flake of snow to be found and sidewalks tend to be much safer to traverse when that’s the case.  Instead of leaving home in search of warm and sunny beaches, I find it easy to recommend Vancouver, a place that seems to peek into the future, while holding onto history and academia and recreation and sports and art and culture and shopping and food and so much more…all in a small, accessible area just north of Seattle, Washington.

What’s so futuristic about Vancouver?  Most specifically, the state of GLBT rights.  Go there. Be comfortable. Get married if you want. Enjoy the future.

Where to Go:

Davie Village is Vancouver’s gay neighborhood and gay pride is literally hanging from every lamp post.  Rainbow banners flank the street for miles and give the neighborhood a bright colorful vibe even on the greyest of days.  The Village has everything: coffee shops, restaurants, dry cleaners, markets, night clubs, and bookstores.  If nightlife is what you’re after, you will be sure to find your scene here.  Don’t forget to check Gayvan.com for any special parties and events going on in the Village during your stay.  Stop in at the award-winning Little Sister’s Book & Art Emporium which has been serving Canada’s adult GLBT community since 1983. If you’re looking for shopping in a lesbian area of town, you can cross the bridges and get to Commercial Drive to check that action.

If you or your partner is a foodie or an artist, you’ll want to carve plenty of time out of your trip to enjoy all that Granville Island has to offer.  It’s a small place, but is jam-packed with gorgeous farm-fresh foods, art studios, unique shops, and beautiful views of the water.  Be sure to show up hungry, but make the rounds before you decide where and what to eat; with each stall in the market the food only seems to get better and better.  Had we thought about it ahead of time, we would’ve bought satchels of the amazing food in the market to bring back to the kitchenette in our hotel.  Learn from our mistake.  Take it with you.

We planned our Granville Island adventure to start with the Aquabus on False Creek…little did we know that the trip would be about four minutes long on a vessel that was actually a pontoon (which was a bit hilarious to this Minnesotan).  Our departure from the Island for Yaletown was a bit longer a boat ride, so we encourage you to incorporate the Aquabus into your travel plans to see more of Vancouver from the water.

Getting off the Aquabus at Yaletown was the beginning of a stretch of neighborhoods.  Other neighborhoods of note in Vancouver are Yaletown, Chinatown, Downtown, and the theatre arts district of Granville Street.  Our favorite neighborhood was named for the gregarious man who opened the first saloon in Vancouver, John “Gassy Jack” Deighton. “Gastown” has stayed true to its roots.  It is a funky neighborhood, with great restaurants on every corner, tourists on every cobblestone, and a seedy element that gives Gastown its gritty vibe.

The on-and-off trolley or bus idea is great for Vancouver in the respect that the trolley will take you everywhere you might want to go–but you can actually get off where you want to see in greater depth.  Good for reconnaissance, great for transit.  With attractions like the Aquarium, Maritime Museum, beyond the compact downtown area, it’s important to know which of the on-and-off services can get you places…and where might require taxis.  The Vancouver Trolley Company served us well for most everything we wanted to see, though we often just hoofed it due to the fact that everything is fairly close in proximity.

What’s a little bit out of the way is the University of British Columbia with Botanical Gardens and the world-famous Museum of Anthropology.  When I surveyed people as to what CANNOT be missed in Vancouver, the Museum of Anthropology was the resounding answer.  Sure, it shows that I run with nerds, but it is worth a trip to the campus to see the amazing collection of culture and art.  It’s extensive.  Masks and weapons and sculptures and drawers upon drawers full of artifacts…totem poles and so many beautiful dishes.  My nerdery has a threshold and it was hit a few hours into the Museum, which was perfect in timing to move on to the next great thing Vancouver had to offer.

With 1,001 acres of West Coast rainforest, Stanley Park is an impressive natural space right next to the hustle and bustle of downtown Vancouver.  You can book a horse-drawn carriage tour to see a portion of the park and hear its rich history.  Or, if you would rather get some exercise, then cycle or walk the 5.5 mile sea wall trail that circles the park. Don’t miss the majestic hand-carved Totem Poles and definitely keep your eyes peeled for the mounted police.

Where to Stay:

Stay near the action.  Everything is close in Vancouver.  The Coast Plaza Hotel by English Bay was our Vancouver home and within blocks of it were not only Davie Street, but also the beach and Stanley Park, an urban public park that’s even bigger than NYC’s Central Park.  The Coat Plaza was a little aged, but provided a comfortable suite with kitchenette for us and also had a mall beneath it, with a grocery store. (Have you had potato chips in Canada, yet? Stock up on the ‘exotic’ flavors.)

This is a city that can be enjoyed on foot, trolley, ferry and by taxi, so leave your cars at home and the hassles of parking behind.  If you do drive or rent a car, please keep in mind that parking in Vancouver proper is very tight and hotels can charge upwards of $25/day.  Get yourselves an on-and-off trolley pass and get ready to see the sights from comfortable, clean, and convenient public transportation.

Something that may not be entirely obvious as you look at the maps of the Vancouver area is that it’s really not that big.  I had to repeatedly adjust my plans as I figured out that it was easier to walk most places than I’d imagined.

Where to Eat/Drink:

Being a global hotbed, I did some significant research when it came to planning the most important part of our visit to Vancouver: the food.  From the New York Times and other online reviews, I found that Market by Jean-Georges was one of the places to eat in Vancouver, housed in the opulent and elegant Shangri-La Hotel, downtown.  I’m not going to go into that one in great depth because it was a disappointment in the quality and taste of cuisine.  Market’s service was stupendous, the atmosphere was chic and sexy, but the fare was bland.

Also heavily lauded in reviews is the Salt Tasting Room in Blood Alley, located in the Gastown neighborhood.  It is worth the hype.  It’s also hard to find, which made it a little more fun for a lunchtime destination.  If you find yourself rounding a corner into what looks like an alley with cobblestones underfoot, look up at the second story of the buildings and see if there’s a flag with a salt shaker on it.  Yes?  You found it.  The Salt Tasting Room is a tasting room, indeed, for wines, beer, and finger foods.  Without a stove on the premises, you pick and choose your food from lists of artisanal cheeses, small-batch cured meats, and different condiments.  Delightful.  And, for the sherry connoisseurs, it happens to have the best sherry collection in Vancouver.

Word of mouth is what brought us our favorite breakfast of the trip.  Medina Cafe in the Crosstown neighborhood was what were were ordered to find if we wanted the best breakfast in the city.  Got it.  A funky space with a front room and a sunny back room, Medina served us rich and throaty coffee as well as both a Fricasse (of eggs, braised short rib, applewood cheddar, and balsamic onions) and a Saumon Fume (a ciabatta sandwich of egg, smoked salmon, caper cream cheese, and avocado)…all after we’d had our amuse bouche of a waffle with lavender-flavored milk chocolate for dipping.  Ridiculous and worth a return trip.

Finally, the Cactus Club Cafe is what we found on foot from the Coast Plaza Hotel late at night.  Set on the beach at English Bay, we judged a book by it’s hip, mod cover and went to the Cactus Club for late-night noshes and cocktails and were not disappointed.  She sipped her classy highball while I sipped the au jus sauce for my Short Rib Sandwich and we were pleased.  To enjoy the ambience and view of the beach during the daytime will have to wait until the next visit.

Where to Go Online:

All Things Vancouver
www.tourismvancouver.com

GLBT Vancouver
www.gayvan.com, Angus Praught

Little Sister’s Art & Book Emporium
www.littlesisters.ca

Cactus Club Café
www.cactusclubcafe.com

Coast Plaza Hotel
www.coasthotels.com

Granville Island
www.granvilleisland.com

Aquabus
www.theaquabus.com

UBC Museum of Anthropology
www.moa.ubc.ca

The Vancouver Trolley Company
www.vancouvertrolley.com/

Stanley Park Horse-Drawn Tours
www.stanleyparktours.com

The Salt Tasting Room
www.salttastingroom.com

Market by Jean-Georges
www.shangri-la.com/vancouver

Medina Café
www.medinacafe.com

Winter What To Do – WHERE: Lutsen, Minnesota

Ski Near Here? Go North

Itching to get out into the snow here in Minnesota?  Want to get some wind as you ski down the tallest mountain in the largest ski area in the Midwest?  You need to aim for Lutsen on the North Shore of Lake Superior.  If you’re like me and grew up in Minnesota hearing about “Lutsen this” and “Lutsen that,” it’s a whole lot more than just skiing up there, too.  Each time I’d pass Lutsen on the way to the Boundary Waters or Gunflint Trail or Grand Marais, I’d wonder–and now I know–what I’ve been missing by not stopping to enjoy what’s up and along Lake Superior between Tofte and Grand Marais.

Where to Go:

If you want to downhill ski, you’re going to go to the Lutsen Mountains, of which there are four: Moose Mountain, Mystery Mountain, Eagle Mountain, and Ullr Mountain.  In a tight area that bustles with activity, the chairlifts and gondola move people up so that they can ski down…but there are also multiple restaurants and bars to enjoy while on either direction of your vertical journey.  Most notably, Papa Charlie’s is a well-known bar and music venue that gets some national names on the calendar.  A great apres-ski option for those interested in ending a day on the slopes with a night of tunes.

Grand Marais is the hub of activity in Cook County with its shops, art, waterfront, and access to the start of the Gunflint Trail.  In the winter, it’s a whole different town than when it swarms with tourists in the warmer months.  I pretty much loved it, being able to wander and park wherever I wanted to.  Still warm enough to get out to amble on the rocks by the lighthouse before they iced over, the warmth of Lake Superior belied the snow that was falling further offshore where the Nordic skiing and dogsledding are popular activities.

Oh, the winter activities.  What to do?  Exactly.  So much.

My biggest piece of advice for what to do is: ask.  Get thee to Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply in Grand Marais (next to the GLBT-friendly East Bay Suites).  An attractive, newly redesigned building along the shore, Stone Harbor should be considered not only an outfitter, but a concierge.  Sitting down with owner, Jack Stone, and employee Jan Lemke, it was obvious that the people are the most valuable resource in Grand Marais.  Stone Harbor can sell you equipment and clothing for winter activities, or you can rent it there…you know, in case you don’t need an amazingly warm and weatherproof anorak for your dayjob downtown.  Want to go dogsledding?  Talk to them, they’ll set it up.  Cross-country skiing? Absolutely. Snowshoeing? Certainly. Ice fishing?  Sure. Ice climbing?  NEVER IN MY LIFE.  But…you can. You more adventurous and nimble souls can contact Stone Harbor to get set up to climb frozen waterfalls.  And, more importantly, Jack and Jan not only speak to the winter activities in Grand Marais, but the GLBT culture in Cook County.  Jack, a strong ally, sees it as pretty much a non-issue in the area.  Jan, whose partner works in an art gallery in town, jokes about how they’ve talked of organizing and having a little parade in what they could rename “Gay Marais,” there is such a large and welcoming community there. Comfort is key when we travel, as is community…whether indoors or out.

Not interested in being outdoors?  The North House Folk School may have all your answers.  Looking like a little fishing village of yore, the colorful compound of buildings in Grand Marais that houses North House beckons to anyone interested in learning “traditional northern crafts” like basketry, woodcarving, fiber arts, timber frames, wooden boats, rosemaling, knitting, and more.  Look at the extensive catalog online for more information–you may want to stay a while.

Where to Stay:

There was no question in my mind, the piece de resistance to staying in Lutsen is the iconic Lutsen Resort.  Depending upon how important proximity-to-ski is, you may choose to look at some of the accommodations on the mountains, but Lutsen Resort sang its siren song of Lake Superior to me.  The resort has a free shuttle up the mountain for skiers (which is so very convenient), so why not stay where the view is the largest freshwater lake in the world?  In buildings that were constructed before setback requirements were so strict, I slept to the sounds of waves crashing.  Being able to choose from different accommodation options is an important feature at Lutsen Resort.

Lutsen Resort is Minnesota’s oldest resort, established in 1885. The Lodge, itself, was built in the mid-1950s and is the quintessential lumber-and-stone structure that keeps the fireplaces glowing.  There are condominiums that are new and modern; particularly accommodating for couples in search of a romantic getaway. As someone who wasn’t bringing romance, but instead brought a dog, I chose the Sea Villa Townhomes, which are a bit south of the rest of the resort, and would recommend them to anyone in a heartbeat.  Each with private owners but managed by Lutsen Resort, the Sea Villas hug the shore of Lake Superior and can accommodate both small and large groups.  Dog-friendly, our Villa had two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a loft…as well as wifi, cable, a gorgeously appointed granite, glass-tile, and stainless kitchen, and a view to die for.  And, the dog walks in the snow were breathtaking.

Waking up on the shore of Lake Superior is relaxing, but getting a massage while overlooking Lake Superior is almost gluttonous.  Lutsen Resort hosts WatersMeet Spa & Wellness Center, an Aveda spa.  Pulling up to the building, I parked the Jeep next to a truck for sled dogs with an HRC bumper sticker on it and knew I’d be comfortable for the next stretch of hours.  My massage therapist, Di Higgins, actually relaxed my shoulders to the point that they’re down where they should be, instead of up by my ears.  And, Nancy Lang, the owner of sled dogs, the truck with the VOTE NO and HRC bumper stickers, and also an EMT in the area, not only helped my friend in terms of massage and relaxation, but also talked to us for a great while about the welcoming and open culture in Cook County for members of the GLBT community.  Now THAT’S relaxing.

Where to Eat/Drink:

One of the most popular packages at Lutsen Resort is the Bed & Breakfast package in which breakfast at the lodge is included in the stay.  We enjoyed eggs benedict and the somewhat-famous buffet in the Scandinavian surroundings of the lodge, with bottomless cups of coffee.  It was comfortable, as was the food.

Venturing out from the resort, there are a ridiculous number of dining options in the summertime, but the winter has a pared down list.  It’s best to check websites and ask around before getting set on a place you may have eaten at or heard about before.

All along Highway 61 in Cook County are attractions and stops, not to mention places to eat.  The Bluefin Grille at Bluefin Bay in Tofte, just south of Lutsen, is a respected and solid destination for a decadent evening of drinks and dinner.  Chef David Grimsley sends out culinary combinations that are seasonal and somewhat surprising.  The Salametti and Pratost of cured Italian sausage, mild swedish cheese, on hearty freshly baked whole wheat toast, was topped with light mango.  The coolish-to-room-temperature Pumpkin and Quinoa Salad was the hit of the meal, with feta and onions all covered in an orange vinaigrette.  The fish of the day was a tasty Monkfish, enjoyed by my friend, while I devoured the Roasted Chicken that was so savory and salty, swimming in a somewhat sweet marscapone and lingonberry cream (be still, my Swedish heart).  We capped the evening with the signature dessert of Bluefin Grille: the luscious, crispy-yet-gooey chocolate chip cookie served in a mini-cast iron skillet a la mode.

Grand Marais, to the north of Lutsen, will see an increase in restaurants reopening now that we’re into 2013.  I was pleased to get to try a new restaurant that had just been open a little over a month in the former Chez Jude space, The Harbor House Grille.  Chef Ed Straub and his wife, Cindy, were lovely hosts to a lunch of woodfire oven Blue Fungi (mushrooms, caramelized onions, and blue cheese) Pizza, a Grand Grilled Cheese (with roasted onion jam, Wisconsin cheddar, and Canadian bacon), and the yummiest French Onion Soup in recent memory.

For those craving sweets in the colder months, don’t go looking for the donuts of summer, but flock to The Pie Place.  A cute restaurant right by the water, we chose to take our slices to go and enjoyed them later in the evening in the warmth and cozyness of the Sea Villa.  Must-haves? The Chocolate Cream Pie is like a pots de creme in a crust.  The Maple Pecan Pie will make you never want to go back to “just pecan” ever again.  And, there are so many Apple Pies on the menu, I have no idea which one I had…but, judging from the crumbly topped goodness of that one, they’re all worth nabbing.

Looking for dinner, drinks, and live music?  The Gun Flint Tavern was our answer to a cold night in need of warming up from the inside out.  With an extensive menu, our choices for dinner were ones that didn’t scream “North Shore” but, instead, were closer to the Equator.  When you see Jalapeno Popper Quesadilla on the menu but then read that it includes pineapple, don’t shy away: ORDER IT.  Even this Swede with what I call the “beige palate” could handle this heat–creamy, sweet, and kicky, I almost wanted to order a second one.  The Cuban was a worthy sandwich with shredded barbacoa pork, swiss cheese, pickles, and aioli…but the Tavern Burger with its jalapeno bacon, melty swiss, and–get this–coffee onions was divine.  Complete with live music, the Tavern was a warm port on a cold night.

Where to Go Online:

Lutsen Skiing/Papa Charlie’s
www.lutsen.com

Lutsen Resort
www.lutsenresort.com

WatersMeet Spa & Wellness Center
www.nsmassagetherapy.com

Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply
www.stoneharborws.com

Harbor House Grille
www.harborhousegrille.com

Bluefin Grille
www.bluefinbay.com

The Gun Flint Tavern
www.gunflinttavern.com

North House Craft School
www.northhouse.org

The Pie Place Cafe
www.thepieplacecafe.com

Cook County (Tofte, Lutsen, Grand Marais, Gunflint Trail, Grand Portage)
www.visitcookcounty.com